Ski Touring in and around Bansko and the Pirin

Ski Touring

Ski Touring

The ski season lasts only 100 days, some years even less. The normal routine is that the resort management do everything they can to get the pistes open for Christmas and then it snows and snows and keeps on snowing and no matter how much snow is on the hill the muppets close the resort around easter.

This year was a perfect example in Bansko. With perfect conditions on piste until the 10th of may the resort shut up shop around the beginning of APRIL!!!

For most tourists this is cool, they might ski Christmas, Feb half term or possibly a cheeky weekend over easter. For people who live in countries with skiing this annual moment of madness is very frustrating. With the snow at its deepest all the lifts close!

ski touring in Pirin

The solution? Ski touring, Randonne, Ski Mo, Earning your turns, Ski Mountaineering….. Whatever you want to call it, the solution is hauling your butt up the mountain with all your gear and then skiing down. The ratio of up to down is a little different to lift access skiing but the rewards are well worth the effort. 

Because the off piste was so good this winter I spent most of my time skiing lift access backcountry lines. When the lifts closed the proper backcountry was calling and my god did we rise to the call. I’ve had some epic days this spring going places and skiing lines that just blew my mind for their beauty and general awesomeness.

ski mountiaineering in the Balkans

Bansko and Dobrinishtay have some amazing, easy access and sick backcountry lines (the link to the book below is a great starting point) Most of what you really want to do is within about a 2 hour hike. Lines that will transform your instagram reputation from ski bum to ski god are within the grasp of even the old, fat and unfit (yup that’s moi)

Golden rules of Spring touring:-

  1. Invest in the right kit.
  2. Know before you go. 
  3. Get home by 12 noon,  the snowpack can get a bit avalanchy in the afternoons
  4. Avalanche bag, I’ll do a blog dedicated to this in the near future.
  5. Merion merino merino
  6. Down down down
  1. Invest in the right kit, touring gear can be used for alpine skiing so next time you are buying skis why not make them touring skis. Tech has moved on so much recently that my go to piste/backcountry ski is also my touring set up. Buy Dynafit. Simple. I have destroyed a lot of gear over the years and Dynafit appear to be nearly indestructible, light and versatile. Go for a ski to suit your riding style. 88mm wide if you plan more up and piste skiing than pow. 108  beasts if you are aiming for the pow!
  2. Know before you go, as it sounds. Get local info about terrain and avalanche risk before you set off. Touring puts you in places a long way from help and in strange terrain. Get a book on local routes (link below) talk to locals about classic tours, get a local guide ; for ski touring  , for split board touring 
  3. Get home by lunch, spring  brings a new dimension to avalanche risk. A slope that is as safe as houses at 6am can be death on a stick at 3pm. Warm spring days and freezing nights play a significant role in safe spring skiing. As a rule of thumb you want to be in the pub by 12:00. Allow for some faffing, route finding and photo ops and leave early. |a head torch is your friend!
  4. Avalanche Bag, this is such an important bit of kit that I will dedicate a whole blog to it another time.
  5. Merino, you are going to get sweaty. There’s no nice way of saying this. Hauling yourself up the hill with all your gear is hard work. Merino is your friend, it keeps you warm on those early starts and wicks sweat away from your skin as you start getting moist!
  6. Down, this is the best investment you can ever make if you are into mountains. So work out how much money you can afford then double your budget. A good down jacket will last you for the rest of your life and is a godsend. At the end of a hike when you are tired and wet to wrap yourself in a -25 rated down jacket is heaven. We got to the top of a run an hour early this winter and had to wait for the sun to come up. Wrapped in a gore tex shell and my down puffy I was warm as toast even with minus temps and a howling gale.

Here are some links to gear I own and can vouch for 100% Everything below is something I would buy again and again. I know it all looks very expensive but do the math there is some serious value to be had in buying quality. Hestra gloves are a perfect example, in 25 years of skiing seasons I have owned a total of 3 pairs of hestra gloves. Two pairs partially destroyed and 1 pair still looking like new. That’s 11 years per pair, it takes about 1000 days of abuse to destroy a pair of hestra gloves!!

Skiing the Balkans book, this is a great introduction to backcountry skiing and touring in Bulgaria. Classic routes with good descriptions and photos this is a beginners bible. :- 

Ski Boot, you will need a boot that fits a technical binding. Advances in tech now mean you can get the same performance out of technical binding as you can out of a normal alpine binding. If you are planning on hucking cliffs and skiing very agressively I suggest the Dynafit beast binding :-

Skis I bought these seven summit skis this summer, they came as a set as per the link. I was riding them in pow, crud, avalanche debris and on piste all winter. They did the job!!! in super deep pow they were a little bit narrow and on crust they were a little hard to control but most skis would struggle in both those situations:-

Skins there is huge debate about ski touring climbing skins and frankly I am not fit or fast enough to tell the difference. I really like the dynafit ones mostly because I can’t afford the G3 ones that look so cool!!:-

Ski touring crampon, again there is a lot of debate about ski touring crampons. I love them, on crud or ice you have prefect grip. When things are a little laterally slippy they also help. They weigh nothing and are a huge help:-

Leashes, I used these for the first time this winter and they are a god send. I ski on super light technical bindings that really are a bit too weak for a 100kg man skiing agressively. When I have popped out of my skis these little beauties have kept my skis attached! If you want to be charging sweet lines rather than hunting for lost skis get yourself a pair.

Down jacket, I love my puffy, I use it all year. from camping trips in the summer to -25 days in the winter. It is perfect in a tight spot when you need to survive the worst the weather can throw at you and as a little luxury at the end of a long sweaty ski touring climb.:-

Hestra Gloves if I was a poet I would write love songs about Hestra. They are just perfect. Warm, tough, durable and only get better with age. A pair of Hestra gloves will last you a lifetime:-

Icebreaker claim a lot about how good their baselayers are. Odourless, warm in the cold, cool in the warm, breathable, amazing wicking properties. To be honest I didn’t believe a word of the advertising guff when I first heared it and frankly 75 euros for a vest is just nuts. I am now totally coverted. It is all true and more. My record is 30 days and nights straight wearing the same thermals and not a wiff of stink. Great sun protection and cool/warm depending on what you need. Those Kiwi sheep really know their stuff.:-

Head torch, I’ve had a lot of different head torches over the years, even wind up ones and not one has come close to this bad boy. For ski touring before dawn starts the Black Diamond Ion lights up the mountain beautifully. Lots of clever adjustments and pretty lightweight  considering the power this monster is just ideal:-

fresh spring tracks

Winter is coming

banskiski

Winter is coming ,

the first gentle snows of autumn have been and gone. The northern slopes of the highest peaks are now clad in their winter whites. Winter is coming, our central heating is on!  The fire in reception is lit, evenings are spent sipping rum laced tea in front of its warm glow . Winter is coming that is an unstoppable reality but what sort of winter is coming the gods only know!

I have been working winter seasons since 1995 I have seen the bad ones when the snow came late and left early, I seen the epic ones where weather systems cycled through relentlessly dumping pow week in week out. I’ve had winters with bookings so bad I’ve had to pay the wages out of my savings and winters so good I’ve not know what to do with all the profit.

12 months ago I thought I had seen everything winter tourism could throw at you. How wrong I was. Winter is coming a winter like no other!

Globally winter 2020/21 currently looks like the worst season in history. Chalet bookings are almost non existent, tour operators have slashed their forecasts and cancelled vast numbers of hotels, resorts and countries. Air lines are 60% down and those numbers are just getting worse and worse.smiley-face

Winter is coming !

For those of us who live here and those of you who are planning on coming to live here this is going to be epic!

Numbers are down! We will have the resort to ourselves. Finally my dreams have come true I have my own private ski resort!

Co-workers and Co-livers mean Bansko is full of really cool people living here for the season. Even if they close the lifts we can still go ski touring, winter mountaineering and back country skiing.

Finally I live in a ski resort and I will not be working 18 hours a day!  Winter is coming YAY!

Avalon-fire-300x300

Working hours from 9th of November until 15th of December

Avalon will be open for drinks and events,

4pm to 8pm Monday to Friday pre season.

We will be complying with local Covid measures so numbers will be limited.

Follow us on facebook for news.

This is what we do!

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We play in the mountains and look after people!

We live here because we love the mountains, we work here because we love sharing the love! Hospitality is awesome, we make our guests happy and in return they give us the means to live the mountain dream!

Avalon is something different.

There are a lot of options in Bansko for Nomads, cheap hotels, cheap shared chalets, apartments at ridiculously low prices. All of which have something in common they are ok for the money.

At The Avalon we are not cheap because we want to offer something a little bit nicer. Internet that works all the time. Clean communal areas and a team to support you while you are here.

The Team

We have a cleaner to deep clean the kitchen, we expect everyone to clean their own stuff but for scrubbing behind the cooker and cleaning the fans, emptying the bins and generally keeping on top of things we have Rumi!

The communal areas will get a once over every day, you’ve got better things to do than mop corridors and bathrooms.

Every evening we will man the bar from 5 to 9pm, not just to serve drinks but to offer advice, give directions and generally smooth out the bumps in the road of living in Bulgaria.

We have a laundry if you want to wash you clothes, we also have a company that can wash dry press you clothes and deliver them back to you!

Concierge Services

You have moved to Bulgaria, you probably don’t speak the language and probably don’t understand how to navigate the paperwork. We do! I have been running multiple businesses here for 17 years, if you need to do something official we have done it before.

If you need a contract for accommodation for residency, a translator, a driver, a helicopter, a private ambulance, a gluten free vegan birthday cake, a horse whisperer…..whatever it is we have done it before and are more than happy to help you!

The Accommodation

You need a room with a private office we have 6 of them.

You need somewhere to do your yoga we have a space for that.

You want to cook a massive dinner  for a birthday party, we have a team to help.

Prices

Prices start from as little as 234euros a month including all bills. no we are not the cheapest but our guests think we are the best. Tripadvisor reviews!